Poland’s gastronomy scene has been steadily gaining international recognition, with a number of restaurants earning esteemed Michelin stars. One establishment, in particular, has made history by becoming the first in the nation to receive two Michelin stars: Bottiglieria 1881. This sophisticated restaurant, led by Przemysław Klima, is renowned for its fusion of traditional Polish cuisine and modern European culinary techniques.
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Bottiglieria 1881, based in Krakow, has always been a standout in the Polish culinary scene. The restaurant’s approach to fine dining is both sophisticated and approachable, placing great emphasis on the quality of its ingredients. The ingredients are locally sourced, meticulously chosen, and are used to create dishes that are deeply rooted in Polish cuisine but carry the nuances of modern European cooking.
Przemysław Klima, along with Robert Gumuliński, established Bottiglieria 1881 in 2013. Even then, Klima was already well-known in the Polish and European fine dining scene. He honed his skills in renowned establishments like “Noma” in Copenhagen, considered one of the best restaurants globally.
The Journey to Michelin Stardom
On June 19, 2020, in the midst of the pandemic, Bottiglieria 1881 earned its first Michelin star, joining the select group of restaurants awarded this prestigious distinction. Klima set two records that day – he became the youngest chef with a Michelin star and achieved the quickest time to receive a star since taking over as head chef.
Earning a Michelin star is an extraordinary honor. However, being awarded two stars is an even higher recognition. As Gwendal Poullennec, the International Director of Michelin Guides, highlighted, “We are delighted to announce the first restaurant in Poland with two Michelin Stars. We continuously monitor the culinary development in Krakow and Warsaw, and this year we are pleased to extend our scope to Poznań as well. Michelin inspectors were impressed by the vibrant and fast-growing restaurant market in this city, where they found many exceptional places worth recommending.”
The Michelin Guide, symbolized by its iconic red cover, has been directing gourmands and travelers to noteworthy dining establishments for over a century. The guide’s anonymous inspectors evaluate, describe, and select restaurants, awarding special distinctions to those that stand out. The legendary Michelin stars are the ultimate dream for many chefs and restaurateurs. One star denotes a very good restaurant in its category, two stars signify excellent cuisine worth a detour, and three stars indicate exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.
In addition to the stars, the Michelin Guide also awards the BIB Gourmand to restaurants that offer particularly good value for money. In the latest selection, seven restaurants received the BIB Gourmand title, including the Krakow-based Molam with its Thai cuisine, and the Warsaw-based Koneser Grill, Kieliszki na Prożnej, Le Braci, and Alewino.
The Evolution of Michelin Stars in Poland
In 2013, Atelier Amaro became the first Polish restaurant to receive a Michelin star. Bottiglieria 1881 followed in 2020, and in 2023, it made history by becoming the first Polish restaurant to receive two Michelin stars.
The full selection of restaurants from Krakow, Poznań, and Warsaw that made it to the 2023 Michelin Guide can be found on the Michelin Guide’s website and the MICHELIN Guide App.
The Chef Behind Bottiglieria 1881
Przemysław Klima’s mature approach to cuisine, evident in his refined and original dishes, has left a profound impression on Michelin inspectors. His dishes, while grounded in local and seasonal ingredients, exhibit a level of sophistication and depth of flavor that have earned Bottiglieria 1881 its coveted stars.
Klima admitted in a 2020 interview with “Sukces” that two Michelin stars are an absolutely extraordinary distinction. “Everyone has their path and chooses whether to stay with one star or climb higher. It depends on many things, including finances. Two and three Michelin stars are a cosmic level, but if the situation were normal, the second star would be within reach,” he said.
The Impact of the Pandemic on Poland’s Culinary Scene
The COVID-19 pandemic has significantly disrupted the gastronomy industry. Many restaurants were forced to shut down in spring 2020 and again from October 2020 until May 2021 due to sanitary restrictions. During these periods, restaurants could only offer takeaway services. The lockdown created numerous challenges for many establishments, with some suspending their operations. This crisis also affected prestigious places, as evidenced by the awarding of Michelin stars in December 2020.
At that time, only two restaurants in Poland held a Michelin star: Atelier Amaro in Warsaw and Bottiglieria 1881 in Krakow. Despite these challenges, Bottiglieria 1881 has continued to strive for excellence, setting an example for the resilience and growth of Poland’s culinary scene.
Bottiglieria 1881: A Celebration of Polish Cuisine
Bottiglieria 1881’s menu, while rooted in traditional Polish cuisine, takes inspiration from modern European cooking and the chef’s years of experience. The restaurant’s approach to fine dining is evident in its menu. The descriptions of dishes like “Fish with peas” or “Country-style pork” may seem modest, but they belie the intricacy and multi-layered flavors that await diners.
With its two Michelin stars, Bottiglieria 1881 has set a high bar for Polish gastronomy. The restaurant’s commitment to quality, innovation, and the refinement of traditional Polish cuisine has placed it firmly on the global culinary map. As the Polish culinary scene continues to evolve, Bottiglieria 1881 stands as an inspiration and a beacon of what Polish cuisine can achieve on the international stage.
The journey of Bottiglieria 1881 and its chef, Przemysław Klima, demonstrates that with passion, dedication, and a commitment to quality, Polish cuisine can earn its place among the world’s finest culinary traditions. This achievement is a testament to the hard work and creativity of Klima and his team, who continue to push the boundaries of Polish gastronomy.
In the words of Klima, “It would be a shame to stay with just one [star].” And indeed, Bottiglieria 1881 has shown that it is possible to reach for the stars, even amidst the most challenging times.
You can find them in Kraków, at 5 Bocheńska Street.
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